Mr Hart also owns the Ram Jam, between Stamford and Grantham, at Stretton, on the old A1. Sounding only half joking, he says he is 'slightly ashamed' not to be offering more beers: 'I am attracted by the idea.' At Hambleton Hall, near Oakham, in the former Rutland, the proprietor, Tim Hart, offers the local Ruddle's as his house ale, and the original Pilsner Urquell from Bohemia as his lager. I know of no other restaurant in Britain ambitious enough to leaven its wine-list with so many beers, but the idea does promise to spread. All the same, sommeliers may soon need more than a corkscrew and a tastevin. Mr Henderson realises that his staff may need several tutored tastings before they are ready to pass on such explanations to diners. Liberty Ale is made from the American Cascade hop and is for people who enjoy California's oakiest Chardonnays. He enjoys the intensely floral character of Anchor Liberty Ale, from San Francisco, but some guests find it too piney.
' A Theakston's Old Peculiar, on the other hand, is a rhone wine, or a Northern Italian: 'Rich, almost treacly, ideal with a daube.' His current passion in the wine world, Clos Ste Hune, he compares to a Worthington White Shield: 'Wonderful balance, cleans the mouth, lingering flavours. 'With its fruitiness, that reminds me of a burgundy - well, a good vintage burgundy.' Mr Henderson sees them enjoying Adnams' Broadside, a strong ale from Suffolk. Having turned a guest from champagne to its beery counterpart, what miracle will Mr Henderson perform next? I have always felt that lovers of burgundy might be equally receptive on occasion to a good Belgian ale. 'Almost all restaurants provide at least one beer,' he observes, 'and I have come to realise that places like mine should offer something more than the ubiquitous Heineken or Carlsberg.' His view is that he earns his money by making his guests happy. Beers are yet more heavily loaded, but no amount of marking-up will make them as profitable in gross terms. In practice, he slides the scale so that the great vintages do not reach astronomic prices, while more heavily loading those in the lower price range. In theory, Mr Henderson applies a multiplier in marking up his wines. Some have an alcohol content as high as 9 per cent, which takes them into the potency range of wines, and attracts taxes and duties to match. The beers range from pounds 2 to pounds 3.50 per bottle. The most expensive is Chateau Latour 1962, at pounds 105. But doesn't Mr Henderson stand to earn less by offering his guests the beer option with their lunch or dinner? The most modestly priced wine at Gidleigh Park is a Chardonnay from the Languedoc, at pounds 17.50.
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